So the first thing that happens when we get to the Old Port at Marseille is that Zak, a New Yorker, stops dead, points at the water, and gasps, "Look! A starfish!" At which point, being the jaded left coaster who can walk to the ocean from home, I joke, "Oh, what, you want me to take a picture?" Silence. Silence. More sheepish silence. "Ummm. Yes." So this one's for you Zak. It's the best darn starfish I ever did see. Really.